Mexican food! What’s not to love? All those fresh flavours, hearty textures and, at least here in Baja, an abundance of weird and wonderful fish and seafood.
On our first night we stopped off for supper in a hole-in-the-wall ‘restaurant’ frequented only by locals – a long narrow room with a low worktop, kitchen on one side and punters on the other. We polished off a delicious supper of classic rice, beans and fish, before discovering that the vast majority of refried beans are in fact made with ‘manteca de porco’ a.k.a. lard!). Are we sticking to our non-meat eating principles when it came to frijoles, or have we decided to turn a blind eye? I’ll let you guess J
I somehow ended up searching the internet for the best taco and taqueria stands in Ensenada, and so we had some amazing street food in our first few days in Mexico. I tried sea snail for the first time. Loved it! The two stands we frequented were Mariscos el Guero on the corner of Alvarada and Highway 1 (seafood taqueria and ceviche from 50 pesos up) and Tacos de Pescado de Ensenada on the corner of Juarez and Gastellum (fish and prawn tacos from 17 pesos each).
Shopping for the fresh food we’d dreamed off proved harder than we thought. Where were all the markets and street sellers selling fresh papaya and coriander?? In desperation we visited a few tired and sterile supermarkets, asking if there was anywhere else that sold fresh produce. No one seemed to know anywhere other than the supermarkets. We were, to say the least, disappointed.
And then I ended up getting my legs waxed (time to get bikini ready!) by the wonderful Yolanda (I’d post her details but I can’t find them at the moment), who said she’d heard of somewhere called Los Globos where you could get fresh fruit and veg. She gave us the address and the next morning, after a few wrong turns, we found it. This is what we’d been looking for! Los Globos is mostly a big second hand market, but where ‘Avenida Juarez’ crosses ‘Jose Maria Novelos y Paron’ there are a selection of great fresh produce stalls. We got a week’s worth of delicious fresh fruit and veg for £15, and local cheese and eggs for a few quid more. Two very happy campers!
The big supermarkets are over this side of town too, and they do have a better selection of fresh fruit and veg than the ones in the tourist areas.